Thionville - Épinal

Vineyards

4/5 days

I cycle often

The Moselle Valley, from Luxembourg to the Vosges

Thionville, Metz, Nancy and Epinal are the main towns along France’s portion of the Moselle Valley and it’s easy to explore them on this cycle route. Take in the Musée de la Tour aux Puces at Thionville and the Fensch and Orne industrial valleys, with views of the U4 blast furnace. In Metz, highlights include the lovely town centre, the cathedral and the Centre Pompidou-Metz. South from Metz, the cycle route takes you through remarkable natural areas, with the Moselle Valley’s slopes and vineyards in the background.

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Day 1: Thionville - Metz (34km)

Leaving Thionville, you head south along the Moselle. After cycling for a short while, the U4 blast furnace comes into view. A symbol of the industrial power of the Fensch Valley, it has regained its grandeur and new colour thanks to clever lighting. You can visit it between April and November.

North of Metz, the industrial landscapes give way to stretches of lakes. Arriving in Metz, capital of the French county of Moselle, you’ll easily spot the majestic cathedral. Useful signs help you reach the town centre rapidly. There’s plenty to see in Metz historic centre, with its imperial and cathedral quarters, its old streets and its grand square, Place de la Comédie, all well worth seeing. Near the station, admire the contemporary architecture of the Centre Pompidou-Metz. Come evening-time, enjoy an aperitif at one of the many terraces in town, or dinner in one of Metz’s numerous restaurants. By now, you deserve a good rest before the following day’s stage, which is long, taking you via Pont-à-Mousson to Nancy.

Day 2: Metz - Pont-à-Mousson - Nancy (67km)

Heading south out of Metz, La Voie Bleue alternates between the Moselle and a series of lakes before reaching Jouy-aux-Arches, known for the preserved arches of a Roman aqueduct. You’ll then spot the boulders of the Rochers de la Fraze, as well as the vine-covered slopes at Ancy-Dornot. Reaching Arnaville, you enter the county of Meurthe-et-Moselle.

Towards Pagny-sur-Moselle, take the time to appreciate the natural setting changing in front of your eyes. Vines and lakes are dotted along the cycle route in these parts.

The way leads you peacefully on to Pont-à-Mousson, where you can’t fail to spot the Abbaye des Prémontrés from La Voie Bleue. The town is packed with treasures. In the centre, admire famous Place Duroc, a unique triangular, arcaded Renaissance square, then visit the Musée au Fil du Papier, with its highly unusual collections of papier mâché objects. It is possible to spend a night in Pont-à-Mousson if you prefer to divide this stage into two parts.

Get back to the towpath to cycle on beside the Moselle. As you continue along, the Butte de Mousson is the hill jutting out, dominating the whole valley. For the really sporty among you, if you’re not afraid of tackling a steep slope, head up it, as the views from the top are breathtaking.

Arriving towards Custines, you come to the point where you head to the Boucle de la Moselle, an 85km stretch serving the towns of Liverdun (well-known for its madeleine sponge cakes), Toul and then Nancy. The Boucle de la Moselle is the name given to the stretch of river that curves round to the west of Nancy, taking you through varied, bucolic landscapes.

Day 3: Visit Nancy

Cycling along, you arrive in Nancy opposite the port, from where it’s very easy to reach the town centre. It takes scarcely two minutes to get to the Muséum-Aquarium, where there are facilities for leaving bikes and luggage, so that you can enjoy exploring the natural history museum here with all the family. Then do make for the central Maison du Vélo, where you can deposit your bike safely. That leaves you free to enjoy pottering around, exploring Lorraine’s ducal city on foot.

Take a seat at one of the café terraces around Place Stanislas to appreciate to the full this regal square, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its gilded gates led to the city’s nickname of ‘the town with the golden gates’.

Note that Nancy Tourist Office is located on Place Stanislas, so head there for further information on what to do about town. You might explore the historic Ville Vieille, tackle the Art Nouveau trail, or then follow the street art – there’s something for all tastes! We can’t fail to mention the city’s very fine museums, notably the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de l'Ecole de Nancy.

Nancy is also renowned for its gastronomy. Don’t miss the opportunity to taste a genuine quiche lorraine! Plus there’s a classic dessert to try, baba au rhum, invented for the last Duke of Lorraine, Stanislas Leszczynski!

Day 4 : Nancy - Charmes (50km)

After your city stop, it’s back in the saddle.

La Voie Bleue cycle route takes you out of Nancy via a lovely green corridor beside the Meurthe and a canal. You rejoin the Moselle via the Canal de Jonction, passing close to the magnificent Château of Montaigu and its grounds, well worth a visit, as is the Musée de l'Histoire du Fer (on the history of iron) located just next door.

Here, at the level of Laneuveville, La Voie Bleue runs beside the Canal de Jonction linking the Meurthe and Moselle Rivers (using the same route as the V52, which allows cyclists to reach Strasbourg via the Canal de la Marne au Rhin).

Once you’ve rejoined the Moselle, the route continues up to Charmes, through bucolic, unspoilt surroundings. Riding easily along the towpath beside the Canal des Vosges, a highlight along this stage is when you cross the canal-bridge at Flavigny-sur-Moselle.